Fashion and the French Revolution
Robe Retroussée dans les Poches
https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/dress-robe-retrouss%C3%A9e-dans-les-poches/KQHbyFIMUyjCeQ
Pre-Revolution Fashion
The Rococo Era
Before the French Revolution, Paris was the centre of western fashion, and had been that way since the beginning of the 18th century. This era, known as the Rococo era, was centred around excess and outer beauty. Wealthy French aristocrats dressed in elaborate, detailed clothing, showing off their wealth in the most visual way possible. Their dresses were wide, colourful, and delicately embroidered. Their wigs were tall, and their faces were powdered pale. Everyone, both from other western countries and other, poorer, French classes, was doing their best to replicate these opulent styles.
Robe à la Française
One popular style at the time was the Robe à la Française, or The French Dress. This gown symbolized everything that the French, and especially the French aristocrats, valued at the time. Its ruffles, brightly coloured fabrics, and wide frame were elaborate and expensive, clearly using fashion to show off beauty and prosperity.
Robe à l'Anglaise
Later on in the 1700s, the French became fascinated with all things English, and so fashions changed to to the simpler styles that the British wore at the time. The Robe à l'Anglaise, or English Dress, was popularized by Marie Antoinette. This gown was made of linen, which, while still very expensive at the time, did not have the same look of excess that Rococo era gowns strived for. Creating a plainer, less expensive looking gown and naming it after the English was a bit of a dig at England, especially when comparing it to the elaborate design of the Robe à la Française.
Robe Retroussée dans les Poches
Still obsessed with the English, French designers created the Robe Retroussée dans les Poches. It was inspired by the English custom of taking walks in the countryside. Due to this, it was designed for easier maneuverability, at least when compared with the gowns from the Rococo Era. The Robe Retroussée dans les Poches was made of workman's fabric, was ankle-length, and had less detailed patterns than gowns from earlier in the 18th century.
Fashionable Dress During the French Revolution
During the French Revolution, dressing in the elaborate clothing of the early 18th century was dangerous. Aristocrats, who had popularized these styles, were being executed. To the French people, the styles of the Rococo era symbolized their oppressors, and how they cared more about appearing wealthy than about the starving citizens of France. Dressing in the styles of the Bureaucracy was viewed as out of touch and frivolous.
Instead, during the revolution the French wore red, white, and blue- the colours of the French flag- in simple, undecorated styles. This was a show of patriotism, and of support for the revolution. The styles worn were clearly inspired by the clothing worn by ancient Romans. They viewed the Romans of the epitome of philosophy and democracy, things that they wanted to replicate in their own country. To them, the styles and art of the Rococo era were frivolous and empty of meaning, everything that they were fighting against in the revolution.
Post-War Styles
The Round Gown
After the French Revolution, styles became far simpler. They continued to pay homage to ancient Rome, creating the Round Gown, a simple, white, loose-fitting gown that was unlike anything else worn during the 18th century. These changes in fashion did not just happen in France. After the revolution, no one wanted to continue to replicate the French Aristocrats who had been the epitome of fashion in western Europe. Dresses became far simpler for the remainder of the 18th century. Because these dresses did not have a wide silhouette, there was no room to fit pockets underneath the gown. The Round Gown began the trend of women's fashion have small or non-existent pockets.
Fun Fact!
You can actually see this style change in the musical Hamilton. At the beginning of the musical, the characters Angelica and Eliza in wear the stiffer, brighter, and more detailed gowns worn before the French Revolution. However, after the revolution, both characters wear round gowns, showing the change in style that happened during the time period in which this musical was set.
Sources:
https://www.tota.world/article/3230/
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/159485
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/159540
https://www.pudlestonmakes.com/post/robe-%C3%A0-l-fran%C3%A7aise-v-l-anglaise